Central Pilio: Unforgettable Nature Walks and Culinary Delights

Why Visit Now

As winter fades, melting snow feeds the mountain’s streams and brooks, bringing Pilio’s landscapes to life. This is also when the region’s famed aromatic and medicinal herbs flourish, filling the air with their heady scents. Camellias, hydrangeas, and orchids are in full bloom, while in the shaded forests beneath the beech trees, you may spot the endemic Soldanella chrysosticta.

How Best to Enjoy Nature

The best way to experience Central Pilio is by walking its forested slopes and age-old paths linking village to village. Try the 2.4 km trail from Milies to Vyzitsa or continue 2.2 km onward to Pinakates. For a longer, more immersive hike, follow the 10.9 km trail from Aghios Lavrentios to Aghios Vlasios, where gurgling streams and dense greenery provide a tranquil backdrop.

Don’t miss a ride on the historic Pilio train from Ano Lechonia to Milies, offering spectacular views – from sea and olive groves in the lower elevations to plane trees and dense forest as the train climbs higher. From the Milies train station, you can walk along the tracks to the historic De Chirico Bridge, named after the engineer – and father of the famous Italian painter – who oversaw the railway’s construction.

Up for a Scenic Drive?

Pilio is ideal for road trips. From Milies, drive toward Eastern Pilio to discover Tsagkarada, Mouresi, and Kissos, villages known for their lush greenery, Aegean views, and shady squares framed by ancient plane trees. Continue on to Hania and the nearby ski center for a change of scenery. Alternatively, head south towards Neochori, Argalasti, and Lafkos or loop westward – via Volos – to visit charming villages like Portaria and Makrinitsa.

Where to Eat 

Wild greens, mushrooms, herbs, and chestnuts are abundant in Pilio, as are apples. Meat features prominently in the local cuisine, with spetsofai – a hearty sausage and pepper stew – being the signature dish. Another must-try is boumbari, a traditional delicacy made of chopped liver with rice and spices wrapped in sausage casing. Try boumbari at Salkimi Tavern in Milies (Tel. (+30) 24230.860.10), where you’ll also find excellent oriental-style dishes like hünkar beğendi and tas kebab. At Stefanos’ Ouzeri in Aghios Georgios Nileias (Tel. (+30) 24280.930.00), local ingredients are celebrated through simple, traditional recipes – goat stew simmered on a wood stove, eggs with greens, mushroom fricassee, sautéed mutton, tsitsiraoula (wild greens), and of course, spetsofai. To Moutaki Tavern in Aghios Vlasios (Tel. (+30) 697.419.4406) also offers traditional Pilio flavors like lemony goat stew, pork chops, boumbari, and kontosouvli, served with hand-cut fries and refreshing salads.

Where to Stay

Central Pilio villages offer a wide range of accommodation, often housed in restored traditional mansions. Santikos Mansion (Vyzitsa, Tel. (+30) 24230.867.65) is a beautifully restored 1863 stone house offering double and triple rooms. Efipoi Guesthouse (Pinakates, Tel. (+30) 693.266.3114) occupies an 18th-century house with four apartments. Palio Eleotrivio (Aghios Lavrentios, Tel. (+30) 24280.964.81) is set in a 19th-century industrial building with cozy rooms and suites featuring fireplaces. Palios Stathmos Hotel (Milies, Tel. (+30) 24230.864.25) offers modern comfort in stylish rooms with all amenities.

What to Take Home

Honey, marmalades, spoon sweets, pasta, and fresh fruit are locally produced and sold throughout Central Pilio. Make sure to grab some firiki, a PDO apple variety used in marmalades and preserves. Stock up on delicious homemade pies from Korbas Bakery (Milies, Tel. (+30) 24230.862.19), or explore the vast selection at Melenio (Vyzitsa, Tel. (+30) 24230.867.37), which includes jams, spoon sweets, pasta, tsipouro, wine, liqueurs, and local crafts. The Vyzitsa Women’s Agritourism Cooperative (Tel. (+30) 698.596.6822) has a charming shop that stocks everything from sweets and jams to handmade pasta, cookies, and rusks.

Insider Tip

While Milies, with its historic train station, and Vyzitsa, with its grand mansions and lovely square, are essential stops, they can get quite crowded -especially on weekends. Make time for the lesser-known villages like Aghios Georgios Nileias and Aghios Vlasios. During peak hours, opt for quieter, less-touristy areas to enjoy a more peaceful experience.