Why Is Northern Corfu Called Kensington-on-Sea?

The northeastern coast of Corfu is often referred to as Kensington-on-Sea by the British press. Since the 1970s, it’s been a beloved destination for affluent Britons, and it gained even broader fame thanks to Gerald Durrell’s My Family and Other Animals, which inspired the popular TV series The Durrells. The lush nature, crystal-clear turquoise sea, dreamy villas with infinity pools, and modern tavernas serving perfectly cooked Greek food create a unique destination still largely unknown to the masses.

Dense olive groves descend to pebbled beaches and old fishing harbors such as Kalami, Kouloura and Kassiopi, forming the 26-km coastline stretching from Barbati to the sandy beach of Aghios Spyridon. Wealthy Brits – like the Barkley family of The Telegraph, art dealers, designers and House of Lords members – still flock here, as do Austrians, the Dutch and, recently, Russians. These are people who also frequent the south of France, Ibiza and the Amalfi Coast. For them, northeast Corfu “remains pleasantly unpretentious,” as a Daily Telegraph journalist once wrote. They cherish the “comforting serenity of the landscape,” the seclusion of their infinity pools shaded by olive trees, the freedom of cruising around in boats, sea swims and long lunches at seaside tavernas.

“Corfu doesn’t need to try to be cool – it simply is,” says British architect Dominic Skinner, whose company Ionian Estates offers villas with infinity pools, many designed by Skinner himself. One of his standout projects is the award-winning Rou Estate: a 200-year-old village on the slopes of Mt Pantokrator, transformed into 16 contemporary stone villas amid olive terraces and lush greenery – all without losing the magic that was here.

Discovering the region

One afternoon, weary and thirsty, we arrived at Toula’s Taverna on Agni Beach. We ordered chilled white wine, homemade marinated anchovies, silky taramosalata with a delicate smoky flavor, and perfectly fried Symi shrimp. The kids devoured their bolognese and darted off to dive from the jetty. Meanwhile, juicy clams in lemon juice and olive oil arrived, their aroma lingering in the air. That was just the beginning. Next came tender octopus carpaccio drizzled with olive oil, fresh spring onions, oregano, and pink peppercorns. The food here is a cultural treasure!

A one-and-a-half-hour hike from Kaminaki to Kerassia – just five kilometers – on a well-marked section of the Corfu Trail (yes, there’s an app) offered a stunning journey outside the peak summer heat. We passed castle-like villas and elegant summer homes next to emerald coves, rocky shores, and lush vegetation on our way to Nissaki, Agni with its tavernas, and tranquil Gialiskari. In Kalami, almost hidden in greenery, we glimpsed the pink Rothschild villa in the olive grove, once the summer setting for painter Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas and his wife Barbara – previously married to a Rothschild heir – along with Joan and Patrick Leigh Fermor and their friend John Craxton. The path also passed the iconic White House, where the Durrell family lived in the 1930s. Today, it’s a modern café and restaurant with excellent food.

At sunset, we reached picturesque Kouloura Bay. Using the Moovit app, we found the bus stop and departure time from Kassiopi and, in no time, we were back in Kaminaki, where we’d left the car.

The next morning, we completed the half-hour walk from Kouloura to Kerassia. A riot of colorful flowers unfurled in the morning light. The sea, crystal-clear and mirror-like, filled the coves with every shade of aquamarine. The teenagers in our group stayed at the first tiny beach, lured by the turquoise waters. Later, we enjoyed a quick picnic under eucalyptus trees on Kerassia beach, with a rustic Corfiot pie called zorka – crustless and made with wild greens – made from a recipe one of the fathers had found in Gastronomos magazine.

Back in Kouloura’s taverna, a fish supplier arrived carrying a crate of red mullet, scorpionfish, groupers with firm flesh and gleaming skin, and lively lobsters twitching their antennae. “Caught this morning,” he said – not that their freshness needed confirmation! The taverna, which has been operating in the same spot since the early 20th century, started out as a café and turned into a full eatery in the 1970s under the stewardship of Matina and Elena Ginaryrou’s parents. Today, it’s a beloved Corfiot seafood spot, famous for its scorpionfish bourdetto, lobster pasta, and tsigarelli – a local dish of wild greens, delightfully bitter, spicy and perfectly oiled. Divine!

We moved from ouzo meze to Mama Barbara’s pan-fried red mullet; at a nearby table, a large group of Brits enjoyed white wine with fat shrimp and grilled vegetables. By three in the afternoon, the place was buzzing joyfully, the sea breeze mixing with the scent of fish on the grill.

After lunch, we set sail on a friend’s yacht, stopping first at Aghios Arsenios with its namesake chapel – a perfect spot for swimming in emerald waters. We discovered a small cave, and spotted birds of prey soaring in the cloudless sky as well as yellow crocuses blooming between jagged limestone rocks. Next stop: the untouched ecosystem of Erimitis, stretching from Aghios Stefanos to Avlaki Beach, a hiker’s paradise, with some of the clearest, most exotic waters and rich marine life – just a breath away from Albania’s Butrint National Park. At shady Limnopoula Beach, people dived off boats. Then came Akoli, with its white sand and polished pebbles. Only in August does it get crowded; the rest of the year, it’s peaceful and even nudist-friendly. You can also reach it on foot via a 20-minute shaded path from Avlaki.

The only downside of the region? Narrow roads that may not have been repaved for decades. Most villa guests arrive by sea, while others must endure rough drives. “At least there’s no traffic yet,” says Nicholas Cookson, whose family was among the first to buy a villa here – the stunning Yeraki. In 1972, the Cooksons founded CV Travel (Corfu Villas), the island’s first villa rental agency, serving aristocrats, doctors and lawyers. The company was sold in 2000, but locals still praise the family’s contribution. “We owe the area’s recognition to Patricia Cookson,” says Spyros Flambouriaris, London resident and owner of Hotel Cavalieri in Corfu Town.

“It’s a small world. Our clients are all somehow connected – through their children, their friends, or their wider social circles,” says Cookson, who launched Villa Collective in 2016. A seasoned expert, he speaks passionately about the September charity swim across the three-kilometer channel between Greece and Albania – with British, Corfiot, Albanian and other participants. Last year, the event raised awareness for marine conservation in the Ionian Sea; another year, it supported the Smile of the Child foundation.

Where to eat

Pretty much everywhere! The tavernas along these small beaches offer a level of quality rarely found on other islands. Personally, I could live off the fresh, juicy calamari at Eucalyptus in Aghios Stefanos, although Yiannis’ taverna in Krouzeri gives them stiff competition. I’d eat the velvety taramosalata from Galini daily and walk barefoot to Kerasia’s taverna for the best briam (baked vegetables) on the island. For drinks, check out Damianos in Aghios Stefanos, and Limani, Harbour Bar and Illusions at the port of Kassiopi.

Villa and boat rentals

To truly enjoy your time in this corner of the island, it’s best to rent a villa with friends or family – options exist for every budget. Visit: villacollective.com/corfu, and ionianestates.com/destination/corfu

For boat rentals – from 30 to 300 hp – contact Filippos Salvanos, who’s been in the business since the 1980s, at the Kassiopi harbor: filipposboats.com